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Exploring the Parish Closes of Brittany

10/11/2013

4 Comments

 

What is a Parish Close?

Guimiliau Parish Close, Finistere, BrittanyGuimiliau Parish Close
A Parish Close or Enclos Paroissial is a feature of religious architecture particular to Brittany in north western France. These fascinating and sometimes elaborate Catholic parishes are found predominately in Finistere. They number around 70 in total. Normally surrounded by a wall they contain a parish church and other religious buildings and structures such as:

· A cemetery
· A monumental archway or gate giving access to the parish close
· A calvary, these range from a simple representation of Jesus on the cross to elaborate scenes from the bible depicted by up to 30 figures or more
·An ossuary – a repository for the bones of exhumed bodies
. A porch often decorated with statues of the apostles and local saints

The notion of the “parish close” was coined in Brittany. The closes benefited from the prosperity of the economic golden age in Brittany between the 15th and 17th centuries, particularly where linen was made.

Pardons

lampaul-guimiliau-entombment-tableau-finistere-brittanyLampaul-Guimiliau Entombment tableau
Many parishes in Brittany host an annual “Pardon”.  Pilgrims (and tourists) come from all over Brittany and further afield to seek indulgences from the local saint. 

These colourful events date from the Middle Ages. Men, women and children process through the streets in traditional costumes, carrying candles, banners and statues of saints to the church to celebrate mass, singing hymns on their way. 

The procession and church service is usually followed by a Fest Noz in the evening. This involves lots of singing, dancing and food and are much less serious after the solemnity of the Pardon.

Saint-Jean-du-Doigt

saint-jean-du-doigt-finistere-brittanySaint-Jean-du-Doigt
Pilgrims flock to this church in Traon-Meriadec to venerate the relic of the finger of Saint-John the Baptist which arrived there around 1437. 

The sermons at the annual pardon are given from a platform in the churchyard. The congregation then perform devotions at the magnificent fountain and process to the nearby calvary of Pen Ar C’hra and it miraculous spring.

Plougonven

Plougonven, Finistere, BrittanyPlougonven calvary and parish church
It was in Plougonven in 1554 that the series of the great calvaries started in Finistere. 

On the two levels of an octagonal pillar, set in the churchyard of Saint-Yves, stories from The Annunciation to The Resurrection unfold. A demonic devils head was added to the tableau in 1897. 

This impressive calvary underlines richness and fertility of the 16th century in the Tregor region of Brittany.  

Roscoff

notre-dame-de-croaz-batz-de-rosscoff-ossuary-finistere-brittanyOssuary, Notre-dame-de-Croaz-Batz-de-Roscoff
In the churchyard of the 16th century Notre-Dame-de Croas Batz in Roscoff you will find two ossuaries. 

One is dated from the 16th century on the right as you enter the enclosure which is very simple. The other dates from the 17th century and is beautifully decorated by an elaborate double row of balusters. Access is through a strangely arched door on the outside of the enclosure wall. 

On the outside of the church itself you will find ships carved into the walls, a legacy from the pirating past of this charming port.

Pleyben

Pleyben parish close Finistere, BrittanyCalvary and church at Pleyben in Finistere, Brittany
The monumental Calvary of the parish close in Pleyben was constructed in 1738. It displays thirty scenes from the life of Christ carved in local granite. It was relocated to the churchyard during road works in 1955 which must have been some feat.

The mid-Gothic church of St-Germain is well worth a visit to see the painted 16th century panelled ceiling of the nave. Don't miss the beautiful carved cornices decorated with masks that portray mythological scenes alternating with stories of the lives of the saints and scenes of everyday life.

Sizun

Sizun Parish Close, Finistere, BrittanySizun Parish Close
The striking triumphal gate of the parish close at Sizun captures your attention as you enter this small market town in central Finistere. Some say it is the most beautiful of its kind, it is certainly one of the most important and impressive. 

Representative of the art of the Renaissance, the gateway is 14.5 m in length consisting of three sections separated by Corinthian arches surmounted by a cross.

An ossuary is attached to the gate. The entrance to the ossuary is surmounted by a triangular pediment decorated with the arms of the family of Rohan. 

Statues of the twelve apostles adorn the yellow granite exterior. Looking towards the square you can spy a mermaid carrying seaweed.

Picture

Tour the parish closes of Brittany by car

There are three marked driving tours between Brest, the Monts d'Arrée and the Bay of Morlaix. You can pick up leaflets detailing the tours in local tourist offices. Follow the brown tourist road signs which indicate the routes tours or, you can download audio tours in English from the Ze Visit website. You will need to register on the Ze Visit site.
4 Comments

    Welcome!

    This blog is about our holiday cottage near Huelgoat in Brittany and places we have visited in Finistere, with a little bit of everyday life thrown in. We hope that you will find it useful and interesting. Comments always welcome!

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